I am still figuring out how to get the smoothest lower, but I struggle with it far less than the GriGri. The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. One: use the device in Thumb Mode by pulling the thumb loop and rope away from the harness, this time with your left hand, and controlling the descent with your brake/right hand. MANUAL. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Load the rope into the device such that the thumb loop points away from you. When used properly and paired with an appropriate rope system, the Mega Jul offers good assisted braking capability in a lightweight package. MEGA JUL (0) EN DE US FR (0) MEGA JUL. It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport works much like a regular tube device, except it has an elongated wire loop with an ergonomic section "thumb hook". To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Lots of control when lowering the climber and can be used for rappelling as well. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★ The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. One person found this helpful Helpful Disclaimer – CGR reviewers are never paid to provide a review and the website does not take advertising or link to affiliate sales. it has a good brake assist but i was expecting it to be more like the first jul where it fully locks the rope. Not anymore! Tuber Mode, in which the thumb loop is pointing toward your body, makes the Mega Jul work like a standard tube-style rap device—back yourself up with a prussik and rappel as normal. The EDELRID Mega Jul is awesome; super lightweight, easy to use, and covers all the bases. Please make sure that you are posting in the form of a question. Lightweight 2. You can expect durability and longevity out of this device thanks to its stainless steel construction. Basically it is fool-proof. The ropes lock up when you’re not pulling on your carabiner-lever, allowing you a great deal of security to deal with tangles, etc. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. ... (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new and improved version of the older Mega Jul, and we think it is worthy of our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing because it combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-block all in one single device. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. There's a problem loading this menu right now. “Beer and Gear, Ep. Passive assisted braking 3. Order-No. Great belay device. — Assisted breaking on rappel in Locked Mode. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. He showed me how it worked and I immediately purchased one. 7.8-10.5mm. I had to dedicate some time to memorizing the way the device worked in order to not fumble around with it out in the field. When the leader falls, the device will lock the rope, and the belayer must use the thumb hook to lever up the device, freeing the rope. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Turn it backwards to rappel and use a prussic backup.... And tie knots in the end of the rope. To lower a leader after a fall, there are two options—neither one fantastic, representing the biggest shortcoming with this device, but both get the job done. The Mega Jul is the lightest, most versatile and best-performing all-around belay device I’ve ever used—once you get comfortable with it. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Top subscription boxes – right to your door, See all details for EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device - Slate, © 1996-2020, Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates. Another great feature is that if you need to a lower a second in this configuration, you can clip a third carabiner through the small hole at the “nose tip” feature and use that as a lever to release the auto-block. Reviewed in the United States on December 20, 2014. VIDEO. — Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above. Here are some observations about general usability, relative to a Mega Jul, Grigri 2, and DMM Pivot. This gives the Mega Jul a huge advantage over most other autoblock devices, which require more fiddling and backups. Easily my go to belay device, and several other people at my gym have bought them after trying mine. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. ADD TO CART . SLATE. This multifunctional tube-style device is super light, feeds slack to a leader much more quickly than other devices in its category, and can be used in a number of different configurations that increase its braking power to a degree on par with mechanical auto-locking devices. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. Pull slack with your guide hand (left hand) and the rope feeds through the device much quicker and more easily than with other tube-style belay devices. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. Two observations: First, I recommend using belay gloves, especially for lead belays, since you can get a rope burn on the crease between your thumb and palm when using the device in Thumb Mode. Your subscription to our award-winning print magazine or donation will help us continue down a path that is uncompromised, and keep the website free for climbers like you. Compared to $89.00. However, the Mega Jul is certainly not the perfect all-around belay device, which is why I continue to use other belay devices for certain situations. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Locked Mode rappelling, probably the most exciting feature of the Mega Jul, is when the thumb loop is pointed away from your body. The Mega Jul has become my go-to belay device. It took a bit of getting used to for feeding and lowering smoothly but great now. Great for catching lead falls. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Reviewed in the United States on December 29, 2017. Again, belay gloves are a must. Assisted-Braking Mode: When belaying a leader off the harness, I usually use the Giga Jul in assisted-braking mode. Once I got it sussed, however, I could put a second (or two seconds) on belay quickly. Our editorial and design team—and all of our contributors—are climbers just like you who love the sport and want to share all the great things it has to offer. The shape, size, and weight may seem dainty. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. --Product Information--Product Name: Mega Jul Product Brand: Edelrid Best Use: Belaying and abseiling. Edelrid Mega Jul Review - Review of the "assisted braking" ATC. The Edelrid Mega Jul is a lightweight stainless steel belay device suitable for light and fast alpine adventures or multi-lap cragging days. I have used it daily in the gym and have taken it on 8 hour multi-pitch routes and it has worked unbelievably. The type of locking carabiner you pair with the Mega Jul is important. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Finally something better than my atc guide I've used for 10 years. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. $62.29. Jul ‘Mdama defends the Covenant with fortitude! The key is almost. Reviewed in the United States on July 13, 2017, Reviewed in the United States on February 9, 2019. Best of all, the Mega Jul locks down on the rope in the event of a fall because the locking carabiner pinches the rope into a notch in the device. Carabiners of thicker diameters performed better, but thinner carabiners allowed rope slip. This “thumb loop” is primarily used during lead belays. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. We are a bunch of keen climbers and travellers that accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review of the item. I also got confused about which direction to put the bite of rope through the device. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. — Tube-style device for Single, Twin and Half ropes. Reviewed in the United States on January 9, 2020. I tested it with the Edelrid HMS Strike Screw FG, which can be purchased with the Mega Jul as a package for $49.95. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Initially, I had a tough time with this mode because my natural instinct was to clip the device to the anchor from the thumb loop—not correct! 16 | Petzl – Grigri, Meteor Helmet, Dart Crampons, and Swift RL Headlamp”, Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. Reviewed in the United States on February 1, 2020. Jul ‘Mdama stands ready to challenge all enemies of the Covenant! ... although we will look at that briefly in this review. I've used this now in the gym and lead-climbing in the Needles of SD. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. I saw a friend with one of these at our climbing gym. It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega Jul works rather well and is particularly versatile. We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. If someone is climbing, they fall and you don't break, it will auto-break for you (balance, weight, position and friction). Good for belaying up a second and rappelling in both a high friction and a low friction mode. Edelrid Mega Jul Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. You clip through the metal loop just beside the thumb loop. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. overall its a good product for gym applications. (100) 100 reviews with an average rating of 4.75 out of 5 stars. Being incredibly lightweight, no moving parts, and very easy to use, the Mega Jul is my new assisted braking belay device of choice. I know companies today shy away from the word “auto-locking” but Mega Jul certainly does a great job of braking a fall with very little effort. Feeding slack is accomplished by lifting the thumb loop (and rope) up away from your body. … Continue reading “Beer and Gear, Ep. Packed with premium decoration and an authentic Energy Sword, this highly collectible, deluxe micro action figure comes with detachable armor and can be posed with a clear display rod on a buildable stand featuring printed name detail. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. Fantastic and easy to feed rope on lead belay once you figure it out. The auto-lock can be a bit touchy at times and lowering can be a bit jumpy but all in all it's a great device and gives me a peace of mind (Especially having the auto-lock while rapping). The most versatile ever belay device. Cheaper and way lighter than a Grisgris, just as effective as an autolocker, plus easier to use. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. rockandice.com is completely free. For rappeling, there are two configurations: Tuber Mode and Locked Mode. Auto-locks even if brake end of rope After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. I clip my ATC Guide to my harness for multi-pitch ventures and keep my GriGri racked with my sport draws and that’s almost all I ever think about belay devices. The instructional graphics on the side of the device didn’t really help, either. I know some people have trouble unlocking the device after a fall, and you do have to pay attention to be sure it unlocks, but even with a 90lb weight difference between my climbing partner and me, I don't have any real trouble. Break assist, twin/double ropes, single rope, rappel, and guide mode.